The Monthly Stitch


I haven’t been posting much lately as I’ve been handicapped with knee surgery and the rehab which inevitably follows, which kind of curtailed my sewing a bit, but I’ve also been having fun making videos for my new sewing vlog! I’ve only got like 3 subscribers so far so feel free to pop over for a visit 🙂

I managed to meet the Monthly Stitch Challenge for December which was party dresses, and I’ve got two December-made party dresses to talk about in this post (in addition to the #littlereddressproject dress described in my last post). I was invited to a birthday party and the invite said ‘semi-formal’. So of course I took that as a sewing challenge!! I had a couple of ideas and as I couldn’t choose, I decided to do both, just in case one didn’t work!

My choices were Lisette 2209 and Burdastyle Magazine 1/2012 Dress #118B.

Dress One: Lisette 2209

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Why this pattern? I’ve made this dress before, in a light cotton floral, as a sundress, so no muslin required.

What about the fabric? The bodice is made from a remnant of silver-gray silk I picked up on a trip to Thailand about two years ago (can you say stashbust?). The skirt is made from a recycled silk skirt. I also used the original skirt lining for the skirt, and some lining fabric from my stash for the bodice. Invisible zip also from the stash, reclaimed from a refashion.

And the pattern? As I’d made it once already (albeit a couple of years ago) it was pretty straightforward. The bodice darting is actually quite simple although it does create a little bulk at the front waist seam.

Any added extras? Yes, I added pockets using the last few scraps of the bodice material – I think it looks cute. I also had to make the skirt less full as I had to work within the fabric I had, so it is more an A-line than the fuller skirt in the pattern. Invisible zip at the side rather than the back, and eliminated the centre back seam. I used the ‘burrito method’ to line the bodice.

Did I love it? YES! In photos I notice the bodice pleats come to a rather unflattering point on the bust, I think this is to do with the stiffness of the fabric. Don’t care though 🙂

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I talked about this dress on my vlog!

Dress Two: Burdastyle Magazine 1/2012 Dress #118B

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Why this pattern? Basically I was just flipping through my pattern magazines and I thought this one looked simple, and I knew I had some fabric that would work.

What about the fabric? The printed satin has been in my stash for about two years, I think I got it on sale at Spotlight. The lining fabric is slightly stretchy and was bought at my ‘local’, Jack Textiles in Marrickville.

And the pattern? This dress has no shaping and I was initially worried it would just look like a shiny floral tent on me, but au contraire, it’s totally flattering!

Any added extras? I deviated quite significantly from the pattern instructions (although as we all know with Burdastyle, the instructions can be next to useless!) So the pattern used the same fabric, a crepe-backed satin, with the crepe side as the feature of the dropped lining. My floral satin wasn’t really going to work so I used the coral satin as a contrast instead. I lined the front flappy bit on one side with the coral as well to provide some interest. This made the neckline join more than a bit complicated but a few clips and some understitching got it sitting flat. It also made the centre front seam a little different; I wanted a nice finish though so I did a faux-felled seam (folded under the raw edge) and topstitched with some metallic thread.

To make the lining show shiny-side-out at the hem meant I had to install it ‘inside-out’ which did my head in a little bit!! I also skipped the inseam pockets – I was doing french seams all the way and that just seemed too hard. No sleeves either – I tried it on prior to adding the sleeves, pinned one sleeve on and went ‘nope!’ The armholes were finished using bias strips from the floral satin offcuts.

Did I love it?  I certainly love the look of it. I haven’t worn it to any occasions yet though!

I talked about this dress on my vlog, too!

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I did end up wearing the silver-grey dress to the party, even though I had finished both in time.

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I hope everyone had a lovely New Year and I look forward to sharing lots more cool stuff with you all through 2017!!

 

My apologies, dear friends, I have been remiss in updating the blog. Here’s the yeild of some recent adventures in the sewing room.

Tee One:

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Using the Zoe Raglan from Liola Patterns (which has become one of my favourite patterns EVER!) I created this contrast tee. The Zoe pattern has a groovy multi-pleated long sleeve, so I redrafted the sleeve pattern to get a plain short sleeve.

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The main body of the tee is a viscose jersey (or rayon jersey, however you want to call it) that I picked up in a remnant bin for about $6. I love rayon, in a woven or a jersey. It just feels soooo nice. The sleeve pieces are cotton sateen, left over from another project (that one was a total fail, unfortunately, which was a shame because I really dug that print). Because the cotton sateen had less stretch than the jersey, I added a little more ease – about a dress size’s worth – into the sleeve. Sometimes winging it works, because I love this tee!

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The neckline I bound with a bias strip of the sateen – I know, as a stretch fabric I could have used it on the straight grain but intuition told me bias would be better – and I was right, it sits nice and flat. I think the contrast neckline really adds some drama! I also gave it a slightly dropped hem at the back – not obvious in this picture.

Tee Two:

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Another remnant, this is a fairly rigid cotton interlock – half price remnants rule! I managed to squeeze out blouse #122 from Burdastyle June 2011. You can see their version here. The pattern is designed for cotton sateen, but as this interlock wasn’t too stretchy I thought it would work okay (having just played with some sateen recently!) I wanted to make the top a bit longer than the pattern but didn’t have quite enough fabric.

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I think the boat neckline is rather sweet, but I haven’t worn this top yet so not sure how it will go. It’s still a bit warm here for anything with long sleeves!

And finally, Tee Three:

ombre top refashion

This was a last-minute refashion (because I love a deadline – NOT) brought on by The Monthly Stitch’s Challenge for January – “Cheers for New Years”, a beverage-inspired theme.

I originally bought this tunic ($3, I think, it’s been in the refashion pile for some time) because it reminded me vaguely of the Macchu Picchu cocktail I’d seen years ago, holidaying in Peru. I realised later the colours were all wrong, but I still really liked the ombre effect of the fabric.

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Last week when I finally caught up on some blog reading, I saw the January Challenge and immeadiately thought of this tunic. A quick search of the interwebs led me to believe the colours were in fact more along the lines of a Black Velvet – but I was still in the realm of layered cocktails! (Not that I’m a big drinker, mind, but they are pretty!)

Back I went to my trusty retro Butterick 6572, which has been a bit of a workhorse pattern for me. For this version I skipped the front placket and drafted a facing instead.

DSCF9381There was a slight shortage of fabric across the bust – the tunic was a small size – but a little gusset under the arms and a cap at the top of each sleeve took care of that. I used the original hemline, to save both time (no unpicking, no hemming!) and fabric. I took the time to understitch the neck facing – a process I highly recommend as it achieves such a great result. This fabric was a slippery polyester which did give me some greif. (And unpicking all the beading on the original sleeves was a bit of a nightmare, too!)

 

Whew! Another busy month passes by, and I missed the Monthly Stitch deadline by only one day.

October’s challenge was ‘The Final Frontier’. I immediately thought of this sweet Star Wars print voile that I picked up a recent sale:

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But I just couldn’t decide what to make out of it.

But then I remembered a cute poplin I had in my stash with an unbrella/cloud print. And I needed new summer pyjamas. Voila!

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The top is actually a nod to a previous challenge, Vintage Patterns, which I failed. Vogue 9215 has been on my to-do list for quite some time.

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Now, Vogue 9215 is a Size 8. I am not a size 8. So I decided to put my newfound pattern-grading skills to the test again, and graded the little jacket up to a 14.

You guys!!! It worked!!!! This little baby fits perfectly. I used some scraps of blue satin from my stash for the neck band and cuff facings, to make it look pyjama-ey, and I think it looks adorable. The buttons, also from my stash, cost me 60c from an op shop somewhere in Melbourne.

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For the shorts I used good old Simplicity 2721. They are pretty baggy but I’m going for sleep comfort here!! To keep the theme I used a bit more of the blue satin to bind the leg hems.

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Sewing the square corner of the neck band seam was a little tricky, but luckily I had only recently completed very similar navigations on StyleArc’s Tamara Top. I was lazy and didn’t baste the seam this time (I should have!!) but it turned out okay.

The cuff facings were terribly flappy and I did have to tack them down all the way around. There’s a couple of episodes of Stargate Atlantis right there! Hand-sewing is a such great time to catch up on your sci-fi viewing.

The cuffs were also supposed to have little buttons on each side but a) I only had six of the little blue ones and b) I thought as PJ’s it might not be comfy to have buttons sticking into my shoulders all night.

Hope you all had a happy Hallowe’en, whatever country you’re in! I guess because it’s the day after, I should really be saying happy All Saints’ Day, right? 😉